Two Lads Winery – Traverse City 7/14/08

Two Lads Winery

We absolutely winged this trip – other than the hotel room, nothing else was planned including which of the many wineries in the area to go to we'd visit....in browsing the “Wine Country” magazine the state puts out, I'll freely admit something about this place's logo spoke to me....yep, the logo.

Working the tasting bar was a young woman who was friendly and knowledgeable.

At the time of our visit, none of their reds had been released – this is a brandspanking new winery which opened in 2008, but the quality in these bottles was the best we've seen among young wineries. The woman in the tasting room told us their plan is to specialize in reds and try to outdo everyone else in the state – I intend to be back after they're released next spring.

Pinot Grigio – Spicy peach on the nose / A bit fruity, green apple, pear, dry, and nicely balanced – there is something here, some extra “oomph” which sets it apart from every other Pinot Grigio I've had.

Sparkling Wine – my notes say “smooth but blah.”

Chardonnay – as a rule, I hate Chardonnay – we said we'd pass, the woman working suggested we try it anyway - “why not?” - I stand corrected....light and fruity, a little butter but none of that overoaked nonsense – a damn good Chardonnay, perhaps the first oaked Chardonnay we've had that I've truly enjoyed.


Rose – a fairly big rose, dry and fruity...I bought a bottle and will do full notes eventually.

Off Dry Pinot Grigio – somewhat like a Riesling with some stone fruit notes, light bodied and good balance.

A beautiful setup, a great building, a winery that I think shows tremendous promise.

Tabor Hill Winery Tasting Room - Saugatuck Tasting Room 7/13/08

Tabor Hill

In this winery, I noticed a trend present at all three we had been to – bougie women come in, try wine, bitch it's not sweet enough, and buy stuff that's on par with White Zinfandel....when you're at a small winery and are talking to someone involved in the winemaking process, part of them dies every time this happens. I've heard – from a winemaker in Illinois – that the most difficult part of his business is he can't spend enough time crafting good wine, because everyone in his area, who make up most of his business, like the sweet, blush wines....what can you do?

Anyway – the guy at this tasting room clearly didn't know what to make of us and seemed hesitant, but there's something about a youngish guy swashing around a mouthful of wine, discreetly spitting it into a plastic cup, and frantically writing notes that either wins you over with the person working or just plain pisses them off – this guy liked us.

Red Heritage – A bit of funk on the nose / smooth cigar box and cherry.

Red Arrow Red – earth and tobacco nose / easy drinking, earthy, mild oak, vanilla, mild/medium tannin, cinnamon and cherry.

Lake Michigan Shore Cabernet Franc – Mild cherry nose / lots of spice and oak on this one.

Lake Michigan Shore Merlot – Ultra soft, raspberry and cherry, some earth and medium tannings – a good, light wine with some nice depth.

Lake Michigan Shore Cabernet Sauvignon – a bit of “White Out” on the nose, light bodied, some bell pepper, and a lot of tannins – this would be an interesting one to put away for five to seven years and revisit.

Lake Michigan Shore Cabernet Franc Rose – a bit of stone fruit on the nose / fruity but dry, strawberry, an easy quaff – a good, genuine, rose.

Lake Michigan Shore Kerner – Honey, peach, and stone fruit – a Riesling cousin and it shows.

Gewurz – Floral and peachy nose / excellent balance of acid and sugar, peach pie filling is all over this.

Classic Demi-Sec – we weren't going to try this one but the guy working said it was their best selling bottle, outselling almost every other white combined so we should try it. A peachy nose mostly / extremely good, I'm glad we tried it, Auslese style, nearly ideal balance of acid, with peach and spice.

Special Select Classic Demi-Sec – if I'm not mistaken this is made slightly differently in that the grapes are not pressed...the bottle is more expensive by a few dollars but I think it's somewhat less interesting – a mild, grapey nose and a grapey palate, a bit sweeter with less acid, but by all means it's still a good bottle.

Tabor Hill is a must visit in Southwest Michigan!

Fenn Valley Winery – Saugatuck Tasting Room 7/13/08

Fenn Valley

I must talk about Saugatuck before I talk about anything else.

It is the whitest place on earth – seriously...this is where the ultra-rich, Midwestern white elderly people take their grandkids, it would be funny if there wasn't something so menacing lurking underneath. Even seen “Hostel”? I'll bet when the guys who go there are on vacation, their wives are here.

Anyway – the tasting room was being worked by a man and a woman of about 50 and another guy who was perhaps in his 70s – the older guy was cool, the other two, not so much.

Blanc de Noir – Dry, acidic, crisp green apple, a bit of toast, not bad even at $25.

Sparkling Riesling – Somewhat like a sparkling Muscat, flabby and sweet.

Capriccio – Soft raspberry nose / soft and low tannins, lots of berry fruit, but by no means sweet, a nice easy going bottle.

2007 Chambourcin – the nose had a distinct whiff of skunk / a good Chambourcin though, strong acid, raspberry and cherry with a bit of tobacco.

2007 Pinot Noir – Simple, earthy, and dry.

2006 Meritage – Good Bordeaux blend, oak, spice, earth, cherry, and cinnamon.

Lakeshore Demi-Sec – typical, sweet, Midwest style white.

Port – Prune, black fruit, rich tobacco nose / fruity, oaky, spicy, and smooth.

Vidal Blanc Ice Wine 2007 – Solid apricot/stone fruit nose / Honey, apricot, great balance, and a lengthy finish.

Warner Vineyards – South Haven Tasting Room 7/13/08

Warner Vineyards

A friendly, young blonde woman was working the room – this was our first winery of the trip and took us off to a good start.

Gewurztraminer – Spice and apricot nose / sweet, stone fruit, good acid – well done.

Cabernet Franc – Earthy nose / dry, good tannic structure, tobacco and black currant

Cabernet Sauvignon – Cherry nose, smooth and mellow, blackberry and some plum, good but unexciting.

Merlot – Quite acidic, cherry, and overall rather light in body.

Veritas – Mellow vanilla nose. No tannins to speak of, smooth overall, vanilla and blueberry – a good pizza wine.

Port – The nose was like smelling a landfill – thick with honey and caramel notes, a touch of raisin and maybe some tobacco with a strong burn.

2005 Director's Cut Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon

This was about $25 at Trader Joe's – I bought on a bit of a whim, figuring it was a pricier Coppola bottle perhaps it would be somewhere between the standard, somewhat mediocre line, and the Niebaum labels which are a bit out of our price range.

Vanilla, raspberry, and a bit of asphalt on the nose.

Rather smooth – soft tannins, cherry, vanilla, and some smooth oak – just a bit of cola as well, quite interesting.

Some spice comes through and more of that cola essence lingers as well.

This is definitely a solid bottle, certainly a step up from the standard Coppola line (even though the Ivory label Cabernet was well received here), and one really is ideal if you're looking for a gift for a movie and wine lover. I'm not sure I'll be rushing out to get this again – it's not kick you in the pants amazing, but it's a good bottle overall.

N/V Bouvet-Ladubay Signature Brut

We were into the Bouvet Brut Rose well enough that when I saw this on sale for $10 I figured I'd snag a bottle.

Apple and lemon on the nose.

Brut? I think not. I've had bottles of Demi-Sec that were sweeter. This is far sweeter than I generally tolerate in sparkling wine and therefore I am a bit biased against this one. A bit of honey and some suggestions of apple pie – spiced, sweetened apples with some crust like hints – on the palate.

A bit of yeast and apple on the finish.

I can't in good faith recommend this if you are a fan of Brut sparkling wines – if you like a bit of of sweetness I suppose it's worth a shot but to me, it loses tremendous points for the inaccurate label description.

N/V Galena Cellars American Cabernet Sauvignon

So my sister calls me at work and says “hey, we're at Galena Cellars, do you want something?” I figured I'd try their a cab, that's apparently non-vintage.

Very light cherry and spice on the nose.

I'd call it “soft” - a little bit of oak, but mostly cherry vanilla ice cream of sorts. There are no flaws here, it's just fairly simple – a very easy quaff.

A gently tannic, soft and fuzzy finish with linger cherry.

I can't help but cringe at the $20 pricetag here – it's not a bad bottle of wine at all, but it's also not terribly interesting. Considering it's an Illinois wine from a small, family owned winery I can't criticize this too much - I look forward to revisiting their tasting room and trying an assortment.

2007 Fat Bastard Rose

I'd like to say I'm at a point where cute animals on wine labels don't grab me anymore but when I saw this hippo I couldn't say no even though I'm hesitant.

A bit of spice on the nose, maybe some cinnamon.

Shocking...almost bone dry yet still fruity – this is just about exactly what a rosé should be....dry, fruity, well rounded, and an enjoyable quaff. Red berries are just about it – cherry and strawberry with some stone fruit creeping in mid-palate.

The stone fruit comes through a bit more strongly on the finish.

Simply put, this is my kind of rose and for a mere seven dollars I give it eleven thumbs up. Well done.

2005 Chateau Mylord Bordeaux

Were you there when they opened Chateau Mylord?
Were you there with they sniffed and sipped Chateau Mylord?

Ooooh ooooh oh oh, sometimes, it causes me

To tremble...tremble....tremble....

Were you they drank Chateau Mylord?

Why did I buy this bottle? That joke, my friends, that joke. Don't bother writing me hate mail.

Forest floor, clove, and cherry on the nose.

Hmmm....earth, funk, spice, cinnamon, clove, cherry, super ripe strawberry, quite tannic and harshly acidic.

The tannins flex their muscles on the finish.

The second day brought out tobacco and spice on the nose. The acid has subsided a bit, but the fruit has faded too. Lots of earth, cigar, tobacco, bell pepper, with very bold tannins. The finish is all brown spice – nutmeg and clove.

Nothing over the top exciting but on the second day this is a pretty typical, cheap, classic style Bordeaux. Not a bad bottle for ten bucks.

2006 Gabbiano Chianti

I was perusing our archives and was shocked to see we've never reviewed the regular ol' Gabbiano Chianti. You know the drill with this one, six bucks or so, available everywhere wine is sold.

Strawberry and earth on the nose.

Interesting – this is one of most Pinot Noir like Chianti's I've had. In fact, screw cheap Pinot Noir, grab this. Chocolate, earth, even a bit of cola, and cherry.

Earth, anise, and chocolate on the finish.

I've been a believer in Gabbiano for a while – in fact, it holds a special place in my heart as Gabbiano Chianti is the first bottle of wine I ever bought (my thoughts at the time “that label is bad ass!”). A decent bottle of wine that's a steal and a half at the price.

Lynfred Winery Tasting – 5/18/08

The other day Fran and I did a tasting at Lynfred Winery. Lynfred is a winery in the Chicago suburb of Roselle...they don't have vineyards, so grapes are brought in from California, Michigan, or several other areas depending on the grape. Tastings are seven dollars and you get seven tastings. Here's our notes.

2006 American Chenin Blanc
Pear and cantaloupe on the nose. Fruity, but not sweet, nice acid, unripe melon, grapefruit and tangerine on the palate. Some floral notes and what I'd call a “specialty melon” like muskmelon on the finish.

2006 American Riesling
Sweet smelling with tropical fruit. Not to sweet but not nearly enough acid, orange zest and tropical fruit. Tropical finish with papaya coming through.

N/V Sweetheart White
This is a fairly common style of wine you'll find in Illinois, often made with Niagra grapes – imagine a white version of Concord grape wine. Grape jelly and cotton candy on the nose. Grape jelly and maybe some canned peaches on the palate. The finish is, you got it, more grape with some floral notes.

2000 American Zinfandel
Basically no nose. Cherry and raspberry, with smoke, nicely balanced, definitely not a fruit bomb, oak and Italian spices come through as well. Most oak and smoke on the finish.

2005 American Petite Sirah
Black fruit, leather, and cigar box on the nose. Disappointing in it's lack of palate structure – almost no oak to speak of, lots of ripe dark fruit – blackberry, plum, black cherry, but just not enough happening to make it interesting. A berry finish. This may go well with chocolate.

2005 American Cabernet Sauvignon
Oak and plum on the nose. Cherry and vanilla mostly, black fruit, and a touch of sweet oak. Some menthol on the finish but it fades fast though some coffee notes linger.

N/V Cranberry Wine
Fruit wine is fruit wine....it tastes like cranberries and is a bit sweet. This would work fairly well with Thanksgiving dinner.

While I can't say May's tasting menu was thrilling, I do think if you're anywhere near the area that you should take a trip to Lynfred.

2006 Cycles Gladiator Cabernet Sauvignon

We had this producer's Pinot Noir a while back and it was fine, but I figured for $6 this might be worth a gamble.

A bit of cough syrup on the nose – cherry flavor.

I hate to say it – it tastes like cough syrup too. Artificial cherry, a bit of fake sugar syrup, no tannins to speak of, I get some vanilla, but nothing in terms of oak.

A syrupy feel on the finish and that's about it.

Well, I suppose it depends on how much you like cough syrup. While I wouldn't recommend drinking five ounces of cough syrup if you're not sick, should you have a craving, a glass of this will suit the bill.

Schwa report - 5/15/2008

Today was Fran and my four year wedding anniversary – since our second year we've decided to not exchange gifts and just split a fancy pants dinner. “Technically” our anniversary dinner was had in January at Avenues, but I was able to acquire a reservation at Schwa on the actual date so why not? The restaurant is fairly dark and I doubt flash would be appreciated, so forgive the quality of the photos.

Some folks have posted incredibly detailed reviews on a Chicago food message board so I'm stealing some of their descriptions.

Menu

amuse

(red grapefruit with honey sorbet and chamomile agar atop a cold glass "ice cube")

The first thing I thought was “refreshing” - a burst of citrus.

stone crab, bananas, celery, coriander

(Crab, both “straight” and pickled, accompanied by a slice of dehydrated banana, batons of celery, celery root and a celery root puree. cube of brioche injected with hot banana liquor)

I like crab and this was solid – the interesting part was the cube which when you put it in your mouth and bite down on had a creamy banana explosion.

beer cheese soup, chimay, pretzel

(cheese and beer made by a Belgian monastery, accompanied by a tiny pretzel ball and dill pickle puree and a dehydrated mustard chip)

The mustard chip was just that – the pretzel ball was unbelievably good, and the beer cheese soup was so good it was probably the most unhealthy thing I've had in years.

pad thai

(Traditional noodle dish with a peanut puree and jellyfish as the "noodles")

You wouldn't think anything of this if they didn't tell you the “noodles” were actually strips of jellyfish. The peanut sauce was excellent, but just traditional – the jellyfish tasted a bit saltier than say, a rice noodle, but I'd say this was more a novelty (though an excellent and delicious one)..

arctic char roe, pumpernickel, lemon, rutabaga

(Tiny slices of pumpernickel, candied mustard seeds, and miniature balls of rutabaga with the roe on a Meyer lemon puree, all accompanied by a rutabaga juice shooter)

This one....I took about twenty minutes on this dish alone. Every bite and sip was an explosion of flavor. I'd say this was the highlight of the meal.

quail egg ravioli

(off menu: ravioli with cheese and brown butter with a quail egg yolk in the middle)

In a word, rich. I'm not a fan of eggs but this absolutely worked.

pine cone

(sea urchin ice cream on a maple syrup flavored tuile with some pine essence)

Thankfully this did not have much taste of sea urchin. There was, if I remember correctly, a lavender gel in the middle of the cone that was extremely intense. Good stuff.

kona kampachi, galangal, lime, maple

(three slices of kampachi accompanied by lime gelee, a galangal crisp, and a maple foam, batons of salsify, and tiny slices of (pickled?) daikon sprinkled with cayenne)

True story: a chef we had not previously seen delivered this plate to our table and I momentarily thought he must have been working around a hot oven and forgot to wear deodorant – there was a strange funky odor lingering the air. It wasn't him – it was the dish. Once that initial shock wore off, this wound up being pretty good. The fish was excellent and tender and the maple foam was sweet and light.

morels, nasturtium, lamb brains

(small cubes of lamb brains accompanied by morels and a mushroom foam)

Yes, lamb brains – the three little pods are brains, they amount to about half, so between the two of us we ate one whole brain. A little bit crispy on the outside, and a somewhat custard like middle. It was strange...I'm in no rush to have brains again.

antelope, butternut, white chocolate

(a rectangle of butternut squash separated antelope prepared two different ways: tenderloin sous vide and a stewed ragout. Accompanied by white chocolate mousse and macadamia puree)

Up to this point, I thought this meal was fantastic though I wasn't sure if it lived up to the hype – this one sold me. A small square of butternut squash as fine, the white chocolate foam was good, but the antelope – unfreakingbelievable. The ragout had a sort of stroganoff feel, and the sous vide was just unique. Incredibly good and venison like – I'd go back for this.

Cheese

(A tiny slice of savory cheesecake made from Humboldt fog blue cheese with black truffle ash atop a graham cracker crust).

Pungent and thensome. If you don't like blue cheese, forget it.

dessert

(Parsnip custard, maple syrup and lavender foam. Dabs of passionfruit and candied sweetbreads)

I am a fan of sweetbreads but they so do not work candied – imagine a candy coated piece of meat...the first bite is “that's interesting” and the rest is “this is sick.” The parsnip custard was great and one of those liquids was an icewine reduction which was amazing.

There you are!

Okay, here's what you gotta know about Schwa.

Reservations are a pain in the ass to get. Seriously. I left three voice mails and got no reply, called many times to reach a full voice mail box and finally got through with a bit of luck and cunning. If you're flexible, the trickiest part is getting to talk to a person about the reservation, but once you do you can almost certainly get something. The fact that it's so difficult turns a lot of people off – others will tell you it's part of the experience.

No waitstaff, no host or hostess – the waitstaff are the chefs. The head chef, Michael Carlson works the room, but if you expect exceptionally polished, borderline snooty service, forget it – expect to be asked something like “how are you cats digging the food?”

If you get in, and are dining, you can't talk them into opening the reservation book – people tried and failed.

That being said....

The chefs are all friendly and seem genuinely excited about the food. Chef Carlson was on top of the room, our water and wine glasses were never empty and meal was paced perfectly.

The food is top notch...among the best in Chicago, but almost certainly the most laid back, relaxed, and unpretentious atmosphere.

Finally, they are BYOB – which, in my opinion, is a great thing – when you look at the wine markups at most restaurants that $35 bottle you can bring from a shop would've easily run you $100 if it was on a wine list.

I'd recommend Schwa especially since when you consider they don't have a wine program, this is the best (relative, mind you) deal in terms of ultra high quality food in Chicago. Be patient and don't let the reservation process drive you nuts – you'll be glad you did.

2005 Louis Jadot Gevrey-Chambertin Burgundy

I snagged this Burgundy for about $32 at Costco to bring to Schwa. While I did not take notes at the restaurant, we only went through about half the bottle, so here it is, about five hours after opening. Thankfully in Chicago, when you buy/bring a bottle of wine at a restaurant and don't finish it, you are allowed to let the restaurant recork it and bring it home as long as it's properly sealed and in the trunk.

A big nose – raspberry, earth, cola, and cherry.

Lots of acid, lots of fruit, lots of earth – well balanced, but by no means mild. A fair amount of zing, some interesting soda notes – cola and root beer – some cherry and raspberry, nothing in terms of oak really, but some nice spice and a black tea sort of tannin structure.

The finish is all overly steeped black tea with a bit of pomegranate or maybe cranberry.

As I've mentioned in the “about us” - we like Burgundy but we're nowhere near the point of being experts nor are we anywhere near the tax bracket where that would even be possible. I personally really like this bottle, I think it's great with food or on its own, but I'm sure there are Burgundy freaks who will tear me apart so I hesitate saying much more than this is an excellent bottle at a fair price, distinctly Burgundy and solid all around.

N/V Bouvet-Ladubay Brut Rose

So the closest World Market to our house is going out of business – odd because there were always people in their shopping (and buying). Sadly their wine is not on clearance, but I grabbed this one for thirteen bones anyway.

I get nothing on the nose.

A little bit of white bread, some strawberry, a bit of toast, well in the background are some tropical – papaya, pineapple, guava? - notes.

A clean finish which doesn't linger at all.

The way sparkling wines go is if a bottle goes for under $15 and has no explicit flaws then I'm happy – this one is great at the pricepoint. Superb for sitting on the balcony in the summer.

2004 Ceja Vino de Casa Red

This was nine bones at the local shop. It's a somewhat unusual blend of Pinot Noir and Shiraz.

A little bit of tart cherry on the nose.

More tart cherry on the nose, some strawberry, a bit of white pepper, a touch of oak, not much in terms of tannins but a solid amount of acid – this begs for food.

Cherry and a little bit of oak linger on the finish.

The second day really brought some power to this one – black and red licorice on the nose. More pepper, more fruit, more alcohol, more acid – a bit of bell pepper, some Twizzlers, bing cherry, ripe strawberries, and the sweet oak is presenting itself with a bit of tobacco. Big acid and more licorice on the finish.

Nine bucks? This is one of the steals of the year so far. Not terribly complex (though no quaffer) the first night, but the second day this just came to life. I hope I can find more as this will definitely be worth a revisit.

2004 Juno Shiraz

This was given to me by a friend of mine and I figured I'd pop it open. Will it be better than one of the worst movies I've ever seen which shares its name? Let's find out.

I smell all sorts of black pepper, oak, and smoke in this.

Plum, black cherry, blackberry – all sorts of black fruit – with black pepper, oak, and spice.

The finish has some alcohol burn and some lingering raspberry.

Day one of this was a Friday, we didn't get to the bottle until Monday – that's three days versus or normal one – how does it hold up?

Spice and blackberry on the nose.

Interesting – dried raspberries, figs, and prune, the spice has disappeared and there's virtually no tannin, or oak for that matter though there is some smoke smokiness.

A bit of black pepper is creeping through on the finish as well as some prune and fig.

No complaints at all – a solid bottle and one I'd gladly snag on my own.

Frontera Grill - brunch 5/3/08

Those who know me are most likely sick and tired of hearing about my love of Frontera Grill. I've been to many fantastic restaurants over the years, but the one we keep heading back to is Frontera. Fran and I were hitting up a symphony last night and figured it would be fun to head down early and get a late lunch at our favorite spot. Sadly – Saturday lunch is actually brunch – a “meal” I loathe – take the worst part of breakfast (eggs, eggs, and more eggs) and leave out the best parts of lunch (for example, things without eggs) and you have one craptastic meal. Luckily, Frontera has a couple lunchy things available so we gave it a shot.

We started with appetizer platter: Entremés Surtido: appetizer platter of cheesy quesadillas, crispy chicken taquitos with sour cream, tangy ceviche tostadas, crunchy jícama salad and guacamole

Starting with the bad: The quesadillas look like empanadas – they're good, but mostly bread and filled only with a mild cheese and ultimately are lacking just a bit of oomph. The taquitos had a cheese or cream topping had a strange earthy taste that was not working for me. The good? The ceviche is among the best we've had, the jicama salad was an exceptional blend of spicy, sweet, and crisp, and Frontera's guacamole should really only be tasted rather than described.

I had the Red chile-marinated Maple Creek pork (pastor style), with charcoaled pineapple, slab bacon and red onion, two salsas, frijoles charros, guacamole and homemade tortillas. An exceptional blend of spice, sweet, and savory. I've worked my way through the different varieties of tacos at Frontera and I'd say the pork and the mushroom blend are the best. Do note: the photo is the filling, and you make your own tacos.

Fran had a breakfasty enchilada dish of steak and eggs. She found it to be quite spicy but not overwhelmingly so (when and if their website updates the menu, I'll update the description).

Brunch doesn't seem to get the presentation focus which they give to dinner so these photos don't do them much justice.

The food at Frontera is consistently excellent – the menu almost completely changes every few weeks so it's hard to recommend any one thing as it probably won't be there next month. I can honestly say in our many times eating there, I've never had anything I did not like – I've had a few things I didn't love, but that's minor - overall this place is one of the best places in the city, and easily the best in it's price range (lunch entrees for under $20 a person, dinner for under $30).

I think one reason why Frontera succeeds is because the chef, Rick Bayless is frequently present – he's been there more than half times we have keeping an eye on things – that being said, even when he is not present the food and service are still top notch.

Frontera, however, is not without its flaws – I find them to be barely worth mentioning but these are things a lot of people complain about so here's your caveat.

First – they do not take reservations (technically they take a very limited number of reservations, but every time I've attempted to acquire one they are booked). This is an extremely popular place and it is not uncommon to show up 10 minutes before they open to see a long line of people wrapped around the block and then get quoted a two hour wait. I've found their wait estimates can be somewhat exaggerated, but it's not unusual to have to wait for a couple hours to get in at peak times. Also - don't be shocked if you look in the restaurant to see it's half empty and get quoted a wait - this is done to avoid overwhelming the kitchen..

Second – service is relaxed – some may call it slow – I would probably not hit up Frontera if I had some place urgent to be within 90 minutes. I'm sure you can let them know you were in a rush and they could accommodate you, but I wouldn't risk it. If you're only going out to eat, or spending the meal relaxing after a busy day, it's an outstanding place. There is a reason we went to a late lunch rather than early dinner when we had some place to be at 7:30 pm. I would personally not call it “slow” - the way I see it, if you don't have enough time to sit and enjoy a well prepared meal with high quality ingredients, eat here at a different time.

Third – it's loud. Very loud.

To me, all of this is forgivable but the bottom line is if you want a quiet, sedate place where you
can walk in and be out the door in 45 minutes look elsewhere.

So, there you are. Frontera Grill is easily one of the best restaurants in Chicago and it's well worth a visit.

N/V Greg Norman Estates Sparkling Chardonnay/Pinot Noir

I wanted something reasonable and sparkling – what else is new? This was $15 at the local shop and I'm not sure if I've encountered Greg Norman wines before – in fact I had no idea this guy was a tennis player (or golfer?) so there ya go.

A clean, white bread nose.

A little bit of berry, plus some mild citrusy notes, with a fair amount of red apple. Fairly simple really.

Red apple on the finish.

Not bad, but $15? Meh. Very little going on – for half the price you can grab a similar quality Spanish cava.

2006 The Show Cabernet Sauvignon

This goes for about $13 – I've seen this bottle around and finally decided to grab one. I didn't even realize this was a Three Thieves product until getting it home.

Green pepper and spice on the nose.

Nicely balanced – a bit of oak, a bit of spice, and some nice fruit. Cherry, blueberry, blackberry, plus a bit of oak, spice including the slightest bit of anise and dash of cinnamon.

Some oak and berry notes linger on the finish.

On the second day, more funkiness comes out – chocolate and bell pepper – and the fruit fades just a bit. Lingering cocoa really comes through on the finish and lasts for sometime.

For $13 this is a solid bottle. It's extremely well balanced and has enough going on to well be worth the price. It's quite good the first day, but I think it actually morphed into something a bit more interesting on the second. Go for it.

2003 Two Hands The Wolf Riesling

This one was ten bones at the wine shop – we've enjoyed some Shiraz from Two Hands and haven't had much Australian Riesling, so it seems worthwhile.

A bit of gasoline on the nose.

Bone dry – some tropical fruit notes and petrol but little else.

Some acid and unripe tropical fruit notes come through on the finish.

Being a 2003, this may just be too old – or it may just not be our style – it's not bad, I won't be pouring it down the drain, but I'm definitely not going to be rushing to buy another bottle, especially in this vintage.

2006 Bolla Bardolino

I wanted something cheap and Italian to go with a pizza and seeing as I've never heard of Bardolino I grabbed it for six bones. To sweeten the deal, this has two varietals which we haven't had: Corvina (60%) and Rondinella (30%), plus 10% just listed as “other.”

Cherry and sweaty socks on the nose.

Light bodied – extremely light – I doubt this has seen oak but it's not as harsh as some other unoaked reds are. Tart cherry, white pepper, and a nice acidic zing.

A little bit of spice on the finish – black pepper and a bit of raspberry.

Why are cheap, mass market Italian wines so enjoyable? I have no qualms with this – yes, it could use some more body and you wouldn't want to let this sit on the rack for any extended period, but so what? This is great QPR and would go great with any simple food like pizza or burgers.

2006 Umathum Zweigelt

Here's an interesting varietal from Austria that you don't see much of in the USA.

Black pepper and, oddly enough, grilled steak....maybe that's a combination of salt, pepper, and smoke?

Man, this is weird – this almost tastes like steak. Other than that, I'm getting some solid acid, black pepper, earth, a bit of oak, some cherry and blackberry.

The finish has spice, earth, and blackberry.

On the second day, the nose faded almost completely, I do get a bit of oak and bell pepper. The palette's Shiraz like qualities have come out more as well – lots of spice, black pepper, nutmeg, cinnamon – plus cherry and plum. The finish has some menthol notes and just a bit of alcoholic burn.

This is probably a winner for fans of Shiraz. For the price, about $13, there's nothing to complain about – this is an interesting and somewhat unique varietal and I'd gladly recommend it to someone wanting something a bit different.

2003 GFWC Zinfandel

I picked this up for about $13 at the Glunz Family tasting room in Long Grove, Illinois. To be honest, most of the regular Glunz table wines don't do much for me, but I found this one to not only be better, but to be a pretty solid wine.

Before anything else – this had a ton of sediment so if you have a bottle you may want to keep it upright for a couple days before consuming.

Strawberry and oak on the nose.

A lot of Zins are fruit bombs but this one is very nicely balanced. Strawberry, cherry, oak, black pepper, and a hint of tobacco.

Some spicy notes come through on the finish – cherry pie filling and a bit of black pepper.

On the second day, some oak and funky notes come through. The palate still has a nice balance of fruit, oak, and spice but what's new is some strong overripe blueberry, cola, and root beer notes. Black pepper and cinnamon, plus a bit of strawberry and plum linger on the finish.

Well, this has got to be among the best Illinois wines I've had – excellent QPR – nicely balanced and a great overall bottle.

2004 Domaine Carneros Brut

This was about $20 at World Market. After sampling it, I realized it was a somewhat uninteresting bottle. I figured I would liven up this review but comparing how it tastes with two different glasses. The first is a crystal Spiegelau Champange flute which has a very thin lip and runs about $10 each. The second is a $2 glass flute from World Market with a relatively thick lip.

The Spiegelau:
A little bit of toast on the nose, but overall quite muted.

Very light and crisp, but also a bit weak overall. Citrusy – grapefruit mostly and a bit of orange zest with just a bit of yeast.

More citrus zest on the finish.

The no name glass:
Compared to the other glass, this feels thick and viscous – instead of citrus, I'm getting mostly green apple. No yeast, no toast, interestingly I get a bit of mint though overall it's quite mild.

Green apple and yeast on the finish.

Interesting, eh? To me, the line between green apple and citrus zest is somewhat thin so the flavor profile difference are a bit more minor than they seem - however the thing that's really interesting is how the first glass was absolutely “light bodied” and the second glass was the exact opposite – it's all about how the wine hits the tongue..

Definitely not worth the $20 pricetag – if you found this for half off I would recommend it. There's nothing wrong here but it's just not all that interesting compared to various other bottles at this pricepoint we've reviewed.

2003 Torrione Petrolo Toscana IGT

This has been on the rack for a while – long enough that I forgot what it costs. Sites I'm pulling up are telling me this is in the $30+ range, but based on its rack location I either got it at half off or I mistakenly put a pricey bottle in the cheap section.

Earth and strawberry on the nose.

Quite Italian: chocolate, earth, oak, funk, tobacco, menthol, and a bit of strawberry and tart cherry.

Tobacco, oak, and earth on the finish with lingering strawberry notes.

On the second day tobacco and cherry are all over the nose.

This one changed quite a bit – a big burst of eucalyptus, lots of tobacco, some oak, a bit of plum, and some blueberry comes through as well. I think the tannins have become more pronounced as well.

Oak and eucalyptus on the finish.

A tough wine to argue with – for $30 this is pricey but certainly reasonable. Italian wine can be tricky to some people and if you're on the fence I don't see this one selling you – proceed as you will.

2004 Flourish Malbec Mendoza

This is the last of our Flourish bottles - a low cost, organic line distributed by Albertson's grocery stores.

First day:
Cherry, earth, and oak on the nose.

Quite a bit of menthol on this one – oak and cherry, but the eucalyptus is quite potent.

More eucalyptus on the finish. I suppose this one is good if you care for a lot of menthol in your wine.

Second day:
Chocolate and cherry on the nose.

The menthol is still present but far more sedate. More chocolate, plum, cherry, and a bit of oak.

Cedar and menthol on the finish.

A simple wine but far far better on day two. I'd advise giving this several hours of airtime before consuming. I paid about $5 when this was on sale, but regular price is closer to $11. A solid value at $5, and a borderline acceptable one when closer to $10.

2005 Terrazas de Los Andes Cabernet Sauvignon

This has been in the wine fridge for almost a year – it's been a bottle I keep passing up and figured now is the time. This bottle goes for under $10 and gets some solid ratings.

Day One:
Licorice, oak and perhaps some fig on the nose.

Interesting – cassis, some pruney notes, oak, spice, some dried cherry, and a bit of licorice. Not much tannin and somewhat low acid make the overripe fruit stick out a bit more than I'd prefer.

Spicy cinnamon, dried cherry, and oak linger for some time on the finish.

Day Two:
The nose has faded – while I get cedar, anise, and prune – it's substantially weaker than yesterday.

Today the tannins strike me as a bit more pronounced making this somewhat better balanced. Cassis, cinnamon, oak, and cherry on the palate.

Dried cherry comes through on the finish as well as some oak notes.

This is definitely an interesting bottle – and at the single digit price it's certainly one I'd recommend.

2006 Tait Ball Buster

I figured this one would be tight, so I'm doing one glass Wednesday, recapping it immediately, and getting the rest Friday. This bottle ran me about $15.

First day:
Black cherry, a bit of oak, and a fair amount of forest floor.

Not as tight as I expected, but you better believe it's appropriately named – ripe plum, blueberry, cherry, leather, both black and red licorice.

A bit of cedar, smoke, and plum on the finish – all which last a strikingly long time.

Two days later:
A burst of black pepper on the nose with some ripe raspberry.

Twizzlers, oak, black pepper, green pepper, leather, tobacco, cherry, strawberry - very thick and viscous - huge and complex.

The bell pepper, oak, spice, and tobacco linger.

This one is big – 15.7% alcohol – and these huge Australian Shiraz are either your thing or they aren't – if your preference is for subtle wines, don't even look at this one, but if you like big, bold, and in your face, this is solid.

2005 Chateau La Rose Tour Blanche Bordeaux

We've had good enough luck with the cheap 2005 Bordeauxs that I hit up Binny's and grabbed a few different bottles – so expect a fair amount of cheap ($12 or less) Bordeaux reviews to be coming in this blog in the upcoming months.

A little bit of candied cherry on an otherwise muted nose.

Hmmm...almost no fruit to speak of – a big earthy mess – tobacco, dirt, earth, oak, clove, cinnamon, various dried Italian spices (basil, oregano, thyme) – a bunch of qualities that aren't a problem if there's some fruit to balance it out, but on their own it's not working. After a few hours in the glass I do get a faint bit of cherry, but you really need to search for it.

The finish lingers for some time – usually a plus – but the absence of fruit really doesn't make it a strong quality.

The second day brings no nose at all. Chocolate, cinnamon, spice, oak, tobacco, menthol, and some more prominent cherry. The finish brings some blackberry and spice.

Initially I was going to say this was not worth the eight dollars, but I think it somewhat came through on the second day – I'm still not sold on it though. If you do try a bottle, you may want to decant it for at least six hours or so – or pour yourself a glass, recork the bottle, and enjoy the rest the second day so it gets a chance to morph a bit. It's a shame – this wine has a lot of nice complexities, but as a whole it's just not a strong contender.

2006 Menage a Trois California Red Wine

This was eight dollars at the grocery store and since we've previously enjoyed this producer's rose, I saw no reason not to give it a try. This is a Zin, Cab, Merlot blend.

Oak, spice, cinnamon, and cherry on the nose.

Nice tannins, somewhat spicy, fruity and even somewhat sweet. An interesting combination, I'd say the blend of grapes definitely brings this to a higher level then they'd be alone – the fruitiness of the Zin is certainly there but the Cab really gives this some nice structure. Blueberry, blackberry, and cherry on the palate – some nice cedar notes, and a nice dollop of vanilla.

That spice lingers on the finish as well for some time, with some cherry pie filling notes as well.

I thought for sure some Syrah would've been in this, the blend fools you somewhat. On the second day, the only thing I noticed that was different was the fact that the tannins have faded and the wine lost a bit of structure, but nothing drastic.

This is a solid bottle, maybe a bit too sweet, but for the price it's got some great depth and is quite tasty enough to get a recommendation.

N/V Beaulieu Vineyard BV Muscat de Beaulieu

This was something like $8 for a half bottle – being a dessert wine that's quite a deal so I snagged one.

Ripe peaches on the nose.

Very ripe peach – peach pie filling – overwhelms the palate. This is 18% alcohol but there's not a whole lot of burn – though there is a heavy thickness.

Just more peach on the finish.

After a few days of being open, the nose has faded a bit and the palate his picked up some strange nutty flavors – walnut mainly, I suppose – with honey, peach, apricot, and vanilla.

No depth, but for a cheap dessert wine I don't expect much – no big flaws other than its simplicity. If you like a peachy wine with enough alcohol to knock you on your ass, here you go.

Fuego review - 4/5/08

We've been going to Fuego since they opened a couple years ago and while we haven't done an exhaustive search, it's clearly the best Mexican in the Chicago suburbs we've encountered. The Chicago Tribune just gave them a positive review so I figured we should stop by at an off hour and accept that it'll be a place to avoid for at least a month or two.

We started with the Ceviche Jarocho – shrimp in an orange-lime marinade, plum tomatoes, green olives, jalapeno peppers, cilantro, and avocado.



I had the Filete Morita – beef tenderloin medallions in a chile Morita cream sauce, Chipotle mashed potatoes, and sauteed zucchini and peppers.



Fran had the Chuletas Oaxaca – pork chops in Mole Amarillo which is a fairly light sauce.



We've worked our way through the menu over the years and the only thing I encountered that was less than excellent was a very tough skirt steak. Other than that misstep, everything has been at least very good, if not fantastic – guacamole, chile rellenos, queso fundido, burritos, various specials, etc.

The drinks are good, though somewhat on the expensive side – I stick with the Michelada with Pacifico when I visit. We've tried various mojitos and margaritas and none have disappointed – the wine selection is somewhat small but they have some Mexican offerings which is always nice to see.

In full honesty, I do have some issues with the staff – I can't say we've ever had truly excellent service at Fuego. There's a certain very mild standoffish attitude with, to be honest, most of the servers we've had. It tends to take away from the experience, though is never bad enough to complain.. Simply put, the front of house does not live up to the very high quality kitchen.

Another related issue I have is that the guacamole is prepared tableside – I suppose it's a nice gimmick, but on a crowded evening having a giant cart wheeling around the restaurant – including the bar area – just seems like a bad idea. The people who prepare the guacamole tend not to be talkative or friendly, which makes me wonder why they have someone come out and make guacamole if they don't say a word to you the entire time? It seems that the point of this service is so they chat you up, ask you questions about how you'd like it prepared, yet this has never been the case.

In terms of food, Fuego is excellent – I think with a few more years of growth and fine tuning we actually may have a reasonable competitor to Frontera Grill here in the suburbs.